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You picked out the snuggliest, most comfortable cat bed, imagining that your feline companion would curl up in it every evening. Instead, your cat takes a look, turns its back, and decides that the cardboard box or the couch is a far better option. Sound familiar? If you've ever looked at your cat and wondered if they truly hate their bed, you're not alone. Most cat owners struggle with the same perplexity — and annoyance — when their cats won't use a good bed. Let's examine five signs your cat doesn't like their bed and, more importantly, how you can remedy the situation. 1. Your Cat Never Uses It and Opt for "Alternative" Locations They Like Windowsills, Boxes, or Your Laundry If your cat consistently ignores their bed and instead opts for sun-drenched window sills or your freshly folded laundry, that's a big indication. Cats like to pick sleeping spots that already smell like them — or you, for that matter, states a 2024 article by Hepper. Familiar scent means safety, and that's why your worn hoodie wins over a new bed every time. They Only Use It When Necessary Some other cats will only sleep in their bed when the floor is freezing or when all the different places to sleep are taken. That's a sure sign the bed isn't their favourite — it's their fallback. 2. They Appear Nervous or On Guard When Lying in the Bed A relaxed cat stretches out, eyes shut, and shows their belly. A stressed cat sits at the edge of the bed, eyes darting, ready to make a quick escape. If your cat jumps out of bed at every small noise, it's because they don't feel safe there. Comfort and trust are the most important — if the bed doesn't provide both, they'll avoid it. 3. They Scratch, Dig, or "Remodel" the Bed Cats often paw and dig before settling down — that’s normal nesting behaviour. But if your cat is aggressively scratching, biting, or pushing the blanket off the bed, they’re probably trying to “fix” something they dislike. It might be the texture (too slippery or too fuzzy), the scent, or even the shape. Cats are fussy, but they’re also honest: when they don’t like something, they make it very clear. 4. They Leave Whenever You Approach Does your cat jump from the bed when you come near? That may be an indication that they use it only when they're absolutely alone. This can happen if the bed is in a noisy or high-traffic area, or if it's not private enough. Cats like semi-hidden, cozy places where they can watch TV without being disturbed. If the location of the bed is in a hallway, near the television, or even under an air vent, try relocating it. 5. They Don't "Make a Nest" or Settle Comfortably Most cats knead or turn before they lie down — that's how they test whether the surface is satisfactory. When your cat simply sits, looks doubtful, and departs, they're telling you that the bed doesn't meet their standards. Maybe it's too soft, too small, or too wobbly. Other cats actually half-lie in the bed with their back legs hanging off — a sure sign it's the wrong size or shape. Why Cats Don't Like Particular Beds There are several common reasons that cats dislike their cat bed: The scent is off.New beds sometimes have a plastic or factory smell that repels cats. It can be remedied by washing it with unscented detergent or leaving it out for a few days to air. (Pet Care Shed – Why Cats Reject New Beds） Wrong texture or material.Beds that are too slippery, too rough, or that make a crinkling noise can irritate cats. Bad location.Cats love warm, quiet places — not windy hallways or under glaring lights. Try to place it in an area where they already nap. It doesn't smell like them.Cats are territorial. If the bed doesn't smell like them, they won't think it's theirs. Health or mobility issues.Older cats or those with arthritis prefer low, firm surfaces. A high-sided or extremely soft bed may be painful or hard to get into. How to Make Your Cat Love Their Bed Here's how to turn that ignored cushion into a cozy retreat: 1. Introduce the Bed Gradually Put it near their favourite resting place and add familiar scents — an old blanket or one of their toys does the trick. Put a small cat toy inside so they'll associate it with positive things. 2. Let Them Discover It Never force your cat into the bed. Rather, put some treats inside or use catnip to lure them in naturally. 3. Pick the Right Spot Search for a quiet, cozy corner that is away from high-traffic areas. Cats love spots where they can see the room but still be hidden. 4. Modify the Materials Try a removable cushion or a half-enclosed style if they like hiding. If your cat likes hard surfaces, slip a thin board under the padding for extra support. 5. Keep the Bed Clean Wash covers in scent-free detergent weekly. Dust or loose hair may discourage picky cats. 6. Reward and Reinforce Reward them with gentle petting or a treat every time they nap or sit in the bed. Positive reinforcement forms a habit. 7. Consider Age and Health If your cat has mobility issues, opt for a low, orthopaedic-style bed that doesn’t require climbing. The Bottom Line When your cat avoids their bed, they’re not being stubborn — they’re communicating. It’s your job to decode that message. It might require some adjusting of position, texture, or scent to change the way they feel about their bed completely. Be patient, take note of what they like, and experiment until they snuggle in happily. Remember that cats value familiarity, warmth, and security over style. When you reach that perfect balance, they'll claim the bed as their own — possibly even earlier than you expect. If you’re looking for thoughtfully designed cat essentials, including soft beds and engaging toys, visit Pawpawup for cozy, cat-approved products made with genuine comfort in mind.

Even the most loving cat owners sometimes get litter box care wrong — and your cat will definitely let you know. From ignoring cleaning frequency to choosing the wrong litter type, small mistakes can lead to big behavioral issues (and stinky consequences). Below are 7 common cat litter box mistakes — each paired with vet‑ and shelter‑backed fixes and working sources you can check. 1) Not Having Enough Litter Boxes Rule of thumb: one box per cat plus one extra. In multi‑cat homes, trays should be placed in separate locations — not side‑by‑side — to prevent resource guarding and crowding (RSPCA Australia). Fix: Add at least one extra cat litter box and spread boxes across different rooms/floors. 2) Putting the Box in the Wrong Location Cats need boxes in quiet, accessible spots with an easy escape route; stressful or noisy areas (laundry beside appliances, cramped corners) can trigger avoidance. Guidance from AAHA/AAFP feline life stage guidelines and AAFP/ISFM house‑soiling guidelines emphasises location and choice (AAFP/ISFM overview). Fix: Keep boxes away from food/water and high‑traffic zones; offer more than one route to/from the tray. 3) Using a Litter Type Your Cat Dislikes Individual preferences are real. Preferences for litter type are documented, and many cats do well with unscented, fine‑grained clumping litter; unscented options are often recommended for cats with urinary issues. Fix: Test 2–3 options in separate boxes for a week to see which your cat uses most. Explore PawPawUp cat litter choices and stay with the winner. 4) Not Scooping Often Enough Dirty trays are a top trigger for house‑soiling. Daily scooping and regular full changes are recommended by shelters and vets (RSPCA UK). Fix: Scoop at least once daily; replace all litter weekly (more often for multi‑cat homes), and wash the tray with mild soap/warm water. 5) Choosing the Wrong Box Size or Cover Style Many commercial trays are too small. Veterinary guidance suggests boxes should be ~1.5× your cat’s body length (nose to base of tail) so they can turn and dig comfortably (University of Illinois Vet Med handout). Covered boxes can trap odour and some cats dislike them; others prefer privacy. The key is choice and size. Fix: Use a large, open‑top tray by default; if you try covered, also offer an uncovered option and let your cat choose. 6) Cleaning with Strong Chemicals Bleach or ammonia‑heavy cleaners can leave harsh smells that repel cats. Guidelines favour mild, unscented cleaners and thorough rinsing. Fix: Wash with mild soap and warm water; avoid perfumed sprays inside the tray. 7) Ignoring Behaviour Changes (It’s Not “Revenge”) Sudden changes — straining, avoiding the tray, vocalising — can indicate medical issues or stress. The ASPCA notes at least 10% of cats develop elimination problems, and medical causes must be ruled out first (ASPCA). Fix: Call your vet promptly; then revisit box number, placement, cleanliness, and litter choice using the guidelines above. Quick Checklist (Print & Stick on the Fridge) 1 One box per cat +1; all in separate locations (RSPCA/SF SPCA) 2 Quiet, accessible spots; escape route; away from food (AAHA/AAFP) 3 Trial unscented, fine‑grained clumping vs other types (AAHA) 4 Scoop daily; full change/clean weekly (RSPCA/SDHS) 5 Box size ≥ 1.5× cat length; offer open vs covered choice (UI Vet Med/Catster) 6 Mild cleaners only; no strong scents (RSPCA) 7 Sudden changes? Vet first; then adjust setup (ASPCA) Final Thoughts Litter box care is small effort with a big payoff: fewer accidents, less stress, and a happier cat. If you’re setting up (or fixing) your station, start with the basics above, then customise to your cat’s preferences. At PawPawUp, you can find not only stylish and practical litter box options but also cozy cat bed collections to make your furry friend’s life even more comfortable. After all, a happy cat deserves both a clean bathroom and a soft place to nap.

When people search “dog toy,” they’re rarely looking for something cute to toss in the cart. You’re looking for a smarter way to keep your dog calm, busy, and happy—so your shoes don’t get chewed, your Zoom calls stay quiet, and your pup gets the stimulation they actually need. A good dog toy taps instinct (chasing, dissecting, problem-solving, nesting), delivers exercise without a full park run, and builds better behaviour through routine. At PawPawUp, matching the dog toy to the dog’s age, mouth, and play style results in 80% of “problem” behaviours softening within days. Below is a practical, no-fluff guide you can use today. How to pick the right dog toy (by dog, not by colour) Age & teeth Puppies (6–8 months): Choose soft-to-medium rubber and textured chews that flex. Aim for relief + redirection. Freeze a stuffable dog toy with smearable food for teething waves. Adults: Medium/firm rubber, rope, and durable plush for variety. Rotate work (tug/fetch) with “alone time” chews. Seniors: Softer rubbers, fleece/plush with bigger profiles, and puzzle feeders that keep brains sharp without stressing joints. Mouth style & intensity Gentle nibblers: Plush, fleece tugs, soft treat balls—variety beats sheer toughness. Average chewers: Natural rubber, braided rope, layered fabrics. Power chewers: Solid rubber cores, dense nylon/rubber composites, stitched “no-stuffing” plush. Size up to avoid leverage tearing. Size & shape (safety > aesthetics) Pick a dog toy that’s longer than the back molar span and too big to swallow. For ball lovers, a tennis ball’s diameter is too small for many large breeds; go up a size. Instinct & play style Retrievers/chasers: Discs, balls, and bumper shapes for clean fetch lines. Herders/thinkers: Puzzle boards, snuffle mats, hide-and-seek plush. Terriers/dissecters: Layered plush, tug toys, and safe “tear” outlets. Guardians/guardians-at-heart: Scent games, heavy chews that soothe. Quick win: If your dog ignores new toys, it’s usually the category mismatch (too soft, too hard, wrong size)—not lack of interest. Safety first (materials, parts, cleaning) Materials that earn their keep Look for BPA-, phthalate-, and lead-safe rubbers or food-grade silicones. Quality rope = tightly woven cotton/poly blend that doesn’t shed easily. Avoid brittle plastics that crack into sharp shards. Parts that require supervision Squeakers and eyes/noses on plush are “high-value targets.” If your dog beelines for them, make squeaker time interactive time only. For solo time, choose stitched, no-squeak or rubber chews. A cleaning plan that keeps gums healthy Rubber/nylon: Warm soapy water; some are top-rack dishwasher-safe (check label). Rope: Cold wash in a delicates bag; air-dry fully. Plush: Wash/dry weekly; toss when seams thin. A clean dog toy is a used one—build washing into your Sunday reset. Real-world behaviours that look “weird” (and what to do) “My female dog babys a plush” It’s common and usually harmless. Spayed and unspayed females can show nesting or caretaking behaviours. If you see milk production or agitation, talk to your vet. Otherwise, treat that plush as a comfort dog toy—reserve it for rest, and use other toys for high-energy play. “He whines and paces with a new toy” That’s often a burying/guarding instinct colliding with “indoor rules.” Show him where valuables go: a bed or crate. Cue “place,” reward settling, and add a short chew window so the new dog toy equals calm, not confusion. “She destroys everything in minutes” Shredding is a job. Give it a shift: Pre-play (5–7 minutes of tug or fetch) Present a tougher dog toy for solo time End with a stuffed/frozen chew that rewards quiet If the need to dissect is huge, rotate one “permission to shred” plush weekly and supervise. Resource guarding basics Growling when you approach a toy is information, not defiance. Start with trades (high-value treat → dog toy back), scatter-feed on approach, and avoid snatching. For escalating guarding, bring in a qualified trainer. If the issue skews toward distress when alone, read about separation anxiety in dogs to rule it in or out. Enrichment you can do today (10–15 minutes total) The 5-toy rotation Pick five categories: ball, tug, plush, chew, puzzle. Put three away. Offer two per day, swap one nightly. Novelty beats buying more. Three quick games Sniff box: Toss 10–15 kibble into a shallow box stuffed with paper. Two minutes of work = 20 minutes of calm. Tug-with-rules: “Take it,” “Drop,” “Sit,” “Play again.” The dog toy becomes a language lesson. Hide & find: Cue “stay,” hide a ball in easy places, release to search. Add difficulty each round. A weekly plan most busy owners can stick to Mon/Wed/Fri: 5-minute tug + 10-minute chew Tue/Thu: Hide-and-seek + puzzle feeder Sat: Park fetch or sniffari + supervised “dissect a plush” session Sun: Wash toys, restock freezer, rotate bins Put two baskets where you actually live (desk and sofa). If a dog toy isn’t within 2 metres, you won’t use it. When you’re away: using toys to ease the hard part Dogs are social. Long periods of time alone can spike stress. Your starter kit: two frozen stuffables at different difficulty levels, a snuffle mat set on a release cue, and a durable chew saved for the last hour (so the toughest part of the day has the best dog toy). Rotate which one appears after lunch to keep novelty high. If pacing, drooling, or noise persists, rule out true separation issues (see the reference above) and loop in a trainer. What we curate (and why) We hand-pick categories that solve real problems: quiet chews for apartment life, high-bounce balls that don’t vanish under couches, stitched plush for soft mouths, and puzzle feeders that don’t require a PhD. If you’re new to this, start with one fetch item, one tug, one plush, one puzzle, and one long-lasting chew from our dog toy range—then rotate. You’ll spend less and get more behaviour change. Troubleshooting guide (quick matches) Ignores toys: Wrong texture/size. Try softer, smellier, or food-stuffable. Hyper after play: Add sniffing and decompression after fetch; switch to tug with rules. Shreds plush only: Give dissect-permission plush + tougher solo chews. Guard toys: Trade games + scatter feeding on approach. The simple formula that works Pre-play to take the edge off → present the right dog toy → end before boredom → clean and rotate.Do that for seven days and you’ll feel like you’ve got a different dog—without changing your schedule. Ready to build your kit? If you want personal picks for your dog’s age, mouth, and play style, send us a quick note with breed/weight, current favourites (if any), and your top goal (quiet time, confidence, or exercise at home). We’ll map a two-week rotation you can stick to. Explore our full dog toy range, and if you’ve got a multi-pet household, don’t miss our cat toy lineup for feline enrichment too.