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When people search “dog toy,” they’re rarely looking for something cute to toss in the cart. You’re looking for a smarter way to keep your dog calm, busy, and happy—so your shoes don’t get chewed, your Zoom calls stay quiet, and your pup gets the stimulation they actually need. A good dog toy taps instinct (chasing, dissecting, problem-solving, nesting), delivers exercise without a full park run, and builds better behaviour through routine. At PawPawUp, matching the dog toy to the dog’s age, mouth, and play style results in 80% of “problem” behaviours softening within days. Below is a practical, no-fluff guide you can use today. How to pick the right dog toy (by dog, not by colour) Age & teeth Puppies (6–8 months): Choose soft-to-medium rubber and textured chews that flex. Aim for relief + redirection. Freeze a stuffable dog toy with smearable food for teething waves. Adults: Medium/firm rubber, rope, and durable plush for variety. Rotate work (tug/fetch) with “alone time” chews. Seniors: Softer rubbers, fleece/plush with bigger profiles, and puzzle feeders that keep brains sharp without stressing joints. Mouth style & intensity Gentle nibblers: Plush, fleece tugs, soft treat balls—variety beats sheer toughness. Average chewers: Natural rubber, braided rope, layered fabrics. Power chewers: Solid rubber cores, dense nylon/rubber composites, stitched “no-stuffing” plush. Size up to avoid leverage tearing. Size & shape (safety > aesthetics) Pick a dog toy that’s longer than the back molar span and too big to swallow. For ball lovers, a tennis ball’s diameter is too small for many large breeds; go up a size. Instinct & play style Retrievers/chasers: Discs, balls, and bumper shapes for clean fetch lines. Herders/thinkers: Puzzle boards, snuffle mats, hide-and-seek plush. Terriers/dissecters: Layered plush, tug toys, and safe “tear” outlets. Guardians/guardians-at-heart: Scent games, heavy chews that soothe. Quick win: If your dog ignores new toys, it’s usually the category mismatch (too soft, too hard, wrong size)—not lack of interest. Safety first (materials, parts, cleaning) Materials that earn their keep Look for BPA-, phthalate-, and lead-safe rubbers or food-grade silicones. Quality rope = tightly woven cotton/poly blend that doesn’t shed easily. Avoid brittle plastics that crack into sharp shards. Parts that require supervision Squeakers and eyes/noses on plush are “high-value targets.” If your dog beelines for them, make squeaker time interactive time only. For solo time, choose stitched, no-squeak or rubber chews. A cleaning plan that keeps gums healthy Rubber/nylon: Warm soapy water; some are top-rack dishwasher-safe (check label). Rope: Cold wash in a delicates bag; air-dry fully. Plush: Wash/dry weekly; toss when seams thin. A clean dog toy is a used one—build washing into your Sunday reset. Real-world behaviours that look “weird” (and what to do) “My female dog babys a plush” It’s common and usually harmless. Spayed and unspayed females can show nesting or caretaking behaviours. If you see milk production or agitation, talk to your vet. Otherwise, treat that plush as a comfort dog toy—reserve it for rest, and use other toys for high-energy play. “He whines and paces with a new toy” That’s often a burying/guarding instinct colliding with “indoor rules.” Show him where valuables go: a bed or crate. Cue “place,” reward settling, and add a short chew window so the new dog toy equals calm, not confusion. “She destroys everything in minutes” Shredding is a job. Give it a shift: Pre-play (5–7 minutes of tug or fetch) Present a tougher dog toy for solo time End with a stuffed/frozen chew that rewards quiet If the need to dissect is huge, rotate one “permission to shred” plush weekly and supervise. Resource guarding basics Growling when you approach a toy is information, not defiance. Start with trades (high-value treat → dog toy back), scatter-feed on approach, and avoid snatching. For escalating guarding, bring in a qualified trainer. If the issue skews toward distress when alone, read about separation anxiety in dogs to rule it in or out. Enrichment you can do today (10–15 minutes total) The 5-toy rotation Pick five categories: ball, tug, plush, chew, puzzle. Put three away. Offer two per day, swap one nightly. Novelty beats buying more. Three quick games Sniff box: Toss 10–15 kibble into a shallow box stuffed with paper. Two minutes of work = 20 minutes of calm. Tug-with-rules: “Take it,” “Drop,” “Sit,” “Play again.” The dog toy becomes a language lesson. Hide & find: Cue “stay,” hide a ball in easy places, release to search. Add difficulty each round. A weekly plan most busy owners can stick to Mon/Wed/Fri: 5-minute tug + 10-minute chew Tue/Thu: Hide-and-seek + puzzle feeder Sat: Park fetch or sniffari + supervised “dissect a plush” session Sun: Wash toys, restock freezer, rotate bins Put two baskets where you actually live (desk and sofa). If a dog toy isn’t within 2 metres, you won’t use it. When you’re away: using toys to ease the hard part Dogs are social. Long periods of time alone can spike stress. Your starter kit: two frozen stuffables at different difficulty levels, a snuffle mat set on a release cue, and a durable chew saved for the last hour (so the toughest part of the day has the best dog toy). Rotate which one appears after lunch to keep novelty high. If pacing, drooling, or noise persists, rule out true separation issues (see the reference above) and loop in a trainer. What we curate (and why) We hand-pick categories that solve real problems: quiet chews for apartment life, high-bounce balls that don’t vanish under couches, stitched plush for soft mouths, and puzzle feeders that don’t require a PhD. If you’re new to this, start with one fetch item, one tug, one plush, one puzzle, and one long-lasting chew from our dog toy range—then rotate. You’ll spend less and get more behaviour change. Troubleshooting guide (quick matches) Ignores toys: Wrong texture/size. Try softer, smellier, or food-stuffable. Hyper after play: Add sniffing and decompression after fetch; switch to tug with rules. Shreds plush only: Give dissect-permission plush + tougher solo chews. Guard toys: Trade games + scatter feeding on approach. The simple formula that works Pre-play to take the edge off → present the right dog toy → end before boredom → clean and rotate.Do that for seven days and you’ll feel like you’ve got a different dog—without changing your schedule. Ready to build your kit? If you want personal picks for your dog’s age, mouth, and play style, send us a quick note with breed/weight, current favourites (if any), and your top goal (quiet time, confidence, or exercise at home). We’ll map a two-week rotation you can stick to. Explore our full dog toy range, and if you’ve got a multi-pet household, don’t miss our cat toy lineup for feline enrichment too.

When cat owners talk about “litter training,” it often makes things sound much harder than they really are. In truth, most cats are born with an instinct to bury their waste in sand-like material. That means a cat litter box is less about training the cat and more about creating the right conditions so your furry friend wants to use it every single time. The secret lies in removing barriers, understanding your cat’s signals, and making their litter box a safe and pleasant place. Why Cats Stop Using the Litter Box One of the biggest frustrations for pet parents is when a cat suddenly avoids their litter box. It’s tempting to think they are being defiant, but usually there’s a very good reason. A cat that has always used their box but suddenly stops may be sending a health alert. Cats are masters at hiding illness in the wild, so refusing to use their litter box can be a distress signal. Urinary tract infections, kidney issues, or even minor digestive troubles can all push them to seek alternative places. If your cat shows this change in behaviour, don’t wait—get them checked at the vet. But health isn’t the only factor. Stress plays a big role. A poorly placed litter box in a noisy laundry room, a new baby in the house, or even tension with another cat can trigger avoidance. What seems like “bad behaviour” is often your cat telling you the litter situation doesn’t meet their comfort level anymore. Cleanliness Is the Biggest Factor Cats are clean freaks by nature. Imagine how you’d feel walking into a dirty restroom—your cat feels the same way about a soiled box. Scooping at least once a day is a must, and fully refreshing litter weekly helps prevent odours. Cats also like depth; giving them a few extra inches of litter allows them to dig and cover their waste, sealing smells and keeping the environment sanitary. Investing in sifting tools can make cleaning easier. Instead of breaking up clumps and mixing them into the clean litter, a good sifter helps you separate quickly, which saves money and keeps the litter fresher for longer. Some owners even rotate between two boxes, letting one dry completely while the other is in use. This ensures the box is always pristine, which cats absolutely love. Location Matters More Than You Think Even the cleanest litter won’t solve the problem if the location is wrong. Cats want calm, accessible spaces. Placing the litter box near a washing machine, behind a door that slams, or in an area with constant foot traffic can make them feel vulnerable. A better choice is a quiet corner where your cat can enter and exit without stress. If you live in a multi-story home, place a litter box on each level so your cat always has quick access. Think about your cat’s age, too. Older cats may struggle with stairs, so keeping a box nearby makes life easier. Kittens, on the other hand, may need extra boxes during the training stage until they build consistent habits. Small Tips That Make a Big Difference Deep litter encourages digging, which is why most cats cover their waste instinctively. To reduce litter scatter around your house, try a mat with artificial grass texture—it brushes litter off their paws before they jump back on your couch. For multi-cat households, the general rule is one box per cat, plus one extra. This prevents competition and reduces territorial disputes. And don’t underestimate the value of listening to your cat. If they ignore a fancy covered litter robot but happily use a simple open box, let them guide you. Cats communicate clearly through their choices. Beyond the Litter Box: Other Essentials While the cat litter box is the foundation of a healthy home environment, it’s just one part of your cat’s wellbeing. Pairing it with a sturdy cat scratching post can keep claws healthy and save your furniture. A reliable cat carrier ensures safe trips to the vet or when travelling. Together, these create a supportive setup that respects your cat’s instincts and reduces stress. For a deeper understanding of feline behaviour, you can also explore resources like the RSPCA’s guide on caring for cats, which provides evidence-based tips on litter, enrichment, and health. Final Thoughts At the end of the day, cats don’t need to be convinced to use a litter box—they want to. Our job is to provide them with the right conditions: a clean box, a good location, and attention to their health and stress levels. If you listen to their signals and stay proactive, litter box accidents become rare, and your bond with your cat grows stronger. ✨ Ready to give your cat the best care? Explore our full range of cat products, from litter solutions to carriers and scratching posts, and create a home environment your feline will love.

Why dog toys matter in real life A good dog toy isn’t just cute—it’s a tool. The right chew or puzzle can burn energy, calm nerves, protect your sofa, and even support dental hygiene. Daily, bite-sized enrichment prevents boredom and stress-based chewing. We rotate toy types—chew, fetch, tug, sniff/puzzle—so your dog’s brain and body both get a workout. (Tip: watch what your dog naturally does in downtime: gnawing, nose-work, or seeking tug. Let that habit guide your shortlist.) How to choose the right dog toy (start with your dog, not the shelf) Use this simple checklist: Age, Size, Chew Style, and Energy Level. Puppies need softer textures and simple puzzles; adults with strong jaws need dense rubber or woven rope; seniors often prefer lighter fetch toys and gentler chews. Size matters more than design—small balls for small breeds, large balls for large breeds—so nothing can be swallowed. Match your dog’s play style: a power chewer gets a solid rubber chew; a scent-driven dog thrives on snuffle mats or food-dispensing toys; a fetch addict wants aerodynamic balls or flyer discs. Safety rules most people forget 1) Size-to-muzzle fit: choose toys too large to lodge behind the molars and always bigger than the windpipe diameter. 2) Inspect weekly for tears, split seams, and exposed squeakers; retire damaged toys immediately. 3) Supervise new toys the first few sessions—especially anything with fabric, rope frays, or squeaks. 4) Rotate toys every few days to keep interest high and reduce destructive chewing impulses. What the experts say (evidence-based picks) The ASPCA recommends offering plenty of your dog’s own chew items and rotating them every couple of days to prevent boredom. That small routine change is one of the highest‑leverage habits you can implement. The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) also highlights enrichment as a proven way to reduce stress and prevent problem behaviors—think puzzle feeders, sniff games, and short, daily training games. Common buying mistakes (and easy fixes) • Buying by cuteness, not function: Pick for your dog’s jaw strength and style first. • Ignoring materials: Look for durable rubber, tightly braided rope, or thick, stitched fabric. • Wrong size balls and tug toys: always size up if in doubt. • No rotation plan: even the best dog toy loses novelty—keep a small bin out and a larger stash for weekly swaps. • Expecting toys to ‘babysit’: use toys to guide behavior, but stay involved—two minutes of tug with release cues teaches manners fast. Quick match guide: dog types → toy types • Puppies (teething): softer rubber chews you can chill; shallow puzzle trays. • Power chewers: dense rubber chews without small parts; thick rope tugs (inspect for fray). • Nose‑work lovers: snuffle mats, treat balls, and hide‑and‑seek plush with removable pouches. • Fetch fanatics: oversized, high‑bounce balls or discs; avoid undersized tennis balls for big breeds. • Seniors: lightweight plush or foam fetchers; gentle rubber chews that don’t stress teeth. How to use a dog toy for real behavior wins Think in micro‑sessions: 3–5 minutes, a few times a day. Before you open your laptop, scatter a handful of kibble into a puzzle feeder. When visitors arrive, give a stuffed chew to lower arousal. Between video calls, do 10 quick tug reps with a clear ‘take it/drop’ routine—your dog learns impulse control while burning energy. If your dog fixates on chewing furniture, redirect to a chew and pay big when they choose it on their own. Safety checklist (print this) • Right size: larger than your dog’s windpipe and not compressible to a choke shape. • Material: no splinters; avoid brittle plastics. • Construction: double‑stitched seams; hidden or reinforced squeakers. • Supervision: especially for new or edible chews. • Retire & replace: once torn, frayed, or de‑stuffed. • Rotate: every 2–3 days to keep engagement high. Ready to upgrade your dog’s play? Browse our curated dog toy range at PawPawUp. We hand‑pick durable, enrichment‑forward designs, and ship Australia‑wide. While you’re there, check out our travel‑friendly cat carrier and super‑comfy cat bed. Your dog (and your furniture) will thank you.